Sunday, 14 October 2007

cutting-3



The requirement of quality in Cutting

Wherever a knife blade is used, the placement of the pattern pieces in the marker must give freedom of knife movement. It should not restrict the path of knife so that it leads to inaccurate cutting.
For example, a blade, which has width, cannot turn a perfect right angle in the middle of a pattern piece. Space must be allowed for a knife to turn such corners.


A pattern count must always be made at the completion of a marker. This is done to check that the complete menu of patterns has been included. For example, a 12 size trouser marker, where each trouser size has 16 pattern pieces, signifies a complete menu of 192 pattern pieces.

Correct labeling of the cut garment parts is essential. It is the responsibility of the marker planner to code every pattern piece with its size as the marker is made.

2. The requirement of the production Planning

When an order is placed for a quantity of garments , it normally specifies a quantity of each size and color. Size is often given as a ration. For best utilization of cutting room resources, a high lay rather than a low lay gives a lower cutting labour cost per garment. It will also give lower overall cutting time.

Scrambling

The mixing of sizes in a marker is termed as scrambling. Upto a point, the more sizes that are included in a marker, the greater the scope for fabric savings.

Stepped Lay

Some times single, sized markers are used in a stepped lay

Marker Efficiency
It is defined as


A marker planner can improve the marker efficiency by
a. suggesting alterations to pattern
b. suggesting alterations in cloth

Alteration to pattern: In this the seam location is examined and best possible placement of pattern in the marker is made. This is done by shifting the seam so that small parts can be placed in areas which are otherwise wasted
Alteration to cloth: In this the marker planner can select the fabric width.

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