Friday, 16 May 2008

Proposed Inspection Process for Indigo Dyed Denim



* A four point system can be adopted, with 9 qualities ( from 9 to 1).

The point distribution is as follows:

upto 3"= 1 point
3-6"= 2 point
6-9"= 3 points
9" and above= 4 points

Any defect across full width = 4 point
All the above defects may be length or width wise.
Length wise one course or fine ends/ up to one meter=4
Starting mark (across the width)=4
Cuttable Defects
-moire
- continuous slub or slubbing weft
- thinck end more than one meter
- major shade variation
-burnt selvedge
- blanket impression
-width variation
-Jala-jerky-chira-wrong drawn- float-snarls-missing ends- more warp breaks- patti-holes-cuts-sever temple mark- more pick findings in short length, double pick
-Slack and tight ends >1m


* From qualities 3-9, only 2 pieces in a single roll are allowed and no piece should be less than 30 meters.

The qualities Criterian can be defineds as follows:

9--> 2 shades allowed, allow 20 points per linear meter which no greater than 2 to 3 4 points defects
8--> 3 shades are allowed, allow 36 points per linear meter no greater than 4, 4 point defects
7--> same as 8 but here we allow upto 5 shades
6--> Allow 72 points per linear meter, upto 3 shades -no greater than 5 to 6 , 4 point defects
5--> same as 6, but 5 shades are allowed.
4--> points should not be greater than 72, any number of shades, any number of 4 point defects. We do not allow patta ( width wide strips)
3--> Same as 4, we can allow patta
2--> same as 3, 5 pieces are allowed ( every piece 10-30 meters each)
1--> any continuous defect is allowed ( pack the piece less than 1 meter)

Shade gradation can be
Dark Shade--> D+
Normal Shade --> D
Light Shade --> D-

Relation between Manual and "l a b" grading system
l, a, b values
D- = 554,654,655
D= 454,555,656
D+= 455,456,556

Tolerance for l a b values--> L = +-0.5, a = +/- 0.5, b= +/- 0.5

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