Sunday, 17 May 2009
Some Online Resources in Silk
These two websites - one of which is a commercial exporter's and the other is about hand painted silk, provide some valuable information about silk.
First of all, definitions. One can go through the definitions here. However, I was always looking for the definitions of the following types of Silk.
1. Mulberry Silk
I was not particularly looking for this definiton. Silk produced by silk worm (Bombyx Mori) fed on Mulberry Leaves.
2. Tussar Silk
I was particularly looking for this:
Larvae of several species of moth such as Antheraea mylitta, Antheraca proylei, Antherea pernyi and Antheraca yamamai produce this silk.The insects mostly live in the wild on bushes and trees on which they feed.
3. Katiya Silk
A big one for me.
The portion of Tussar cocoons leftover after about 60% reelable silk is spun into Katiya yarn.
4. Balkal Silk
The peduncles (silk that anchors the cocoon, it is very weak) are utilised for production of Balkal yarn.
5. Muga Silk:
It belongs to same family as Tussar. It is popular for its natural golden colour, glossy fine textures and durability. Muga silk is produced by Antheraea assama westwood which is an endemic species prevalent in the Brahmaputra valley and adjoining hills.
Muga silkworm is a polyhageous insect which feeds on leaves of Som, Soalu and other plants which grows abundantly in Brahmapautra valley.
Eri Silk :
The word Eri is a derivative from Sanskrit nomenclature for Castor Plant, eranada. Castor leaf is the main food for the Eri silkworms and so named as Eri. This is the only completely domesticated non-mulberry variety. Its silk is spun as it can not be reeled.
A Silk yarn made of short lengths of silk obtained from silk wastes, pierced cocoons or floss which gives yarn its characteristic brilliance. There are two grades of yarn Schappe and Bourette. It is spun on special machinery which in some ways is akin to cotton and worsted.
Noil Short fibres removed in combing operation of yarn making of Spun silk is spun into Noil yarn. Noil is mostly produced in Karnataka and Madras.
An irregular, rough silk reeled from double cocoons or cocoons spun side-by-side which are interlocked, making it necessary to reel them together. The unevenness of the yarn confines its use.
A raw silk which is reeled by machine as distinct from silk prepared by hand in cottage industry.
Another Big One.
Matka Silk is obtained from waste Mulberry silk by hand spinning without removing the gum (sericin). Cocoons required to produce Matka are mainly obtained from Karnataka and Kashmir but spinning is mostly done in the villages of Malda and Murshidabad districts in West Bengal by women by hand spinning.
Filaments of the cocoons of this silk from Bihar were originally unwound and plied together on a mud pot, or Matka ( Today, they are alikely to be reeled on a woman's thigh)
Though not a silk fabric yet very important from the point of view of traditional textiles. It is a veg based fabric. A satin weave with rayon warp and cotton weft, creates a high glossy surface.
Gajji Silk is satin weave done on silk fabric. Used in Tie-Dye Sarees in Gujarat state of India
Care of Silk Fabric: This site gives it comprehensively among other resources.
such as Interesting Facts about silk Fabrics and Scarf Tying Techniques
I am still looking for the following definitions of Silk
Some other Snippets
* All tussar is wild silk which is produced from an unraptured cocoon.
* Ghicha and Matka are produced from Raptured cocoon.
* Korea Silk is also known as 33/37 fiber. Generally we have fabrics of korea x korea , korea x china and korea x desi. Korea x Korea can be made on powerloom. The other two qualities are not possible to make on powerloom because of their marked evenness.
* When a supplier talks about 2x1 Korea x China, it means he has taken two threads of Korea together in warp (not twisted, but just taken together) .
* Generally reed in these fabrics is always 72
* China silk is also known as 50/70 fiber. It is paler and coarser in appearance than Korea.
* Desi is a raptured silk from India. Very uneven yet brilliant when worn.