Sunday 29 January 2012

Some Common Synthetic and Blended Fabrics-2



Chiffon


Chiffon Fabric is a lightweight, sheer and plain woven fabric.It is a textile made from silk, cotton, nylon, polyester, or rayon.This fabric can be difficult to work with because of its light and slippery textures. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently. This fabric is a good choice for manufacturing blouses,dupattas and various types of ladies dresses. It is also used for making bridal gowns,scarves and evening and formal wears.

Polyester Chiffon

It is available in the GSMs of 35, 40, 50, 60 and 70 with widths of 42", 44" and 56"




A typical polyester chiffon has the following specifications: 30D/14/2000 Flat S+Z - 30D/14/3200 Flat `s` 88/80

Nylon Chiffon

This can be hand dyed and dip dyed which can give unique coloring effects. It is available in 30, 35 and 40 GSM and in widths of 36", 38", 40", 42" and 44"



Cationic Chiffon

Cationic Chiffon is a polyester fabric woven with 2 colors of thread. The different colored thread in the weave of the fabric provides an elegant iridescent quality giving this chiffon greater depth of color and character over the regular polyester chiffon.


Cationic is a  type of dye used on acrylic or on modified polyester or modified nylon yarn. It is often used to achieve cross dyed effects.  Cationic dyeable yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each of the types of yarn.


Silver Chiffon

A typical silver chiffon fabric has the following specifications:

 It has 100% polyester, with 30D x 30D with a pick density of 177 x 109 and with a weight of 53 GSM.


Viscose Chiffon

It is composed of 100% viscose. It can be hand dyed and dip dyed. It has extra smoothness, comfort and delicacy because of viscose. It is available in 30, 35 and 40 GSM with widths of 40 and 42 inches. Also known as Japan. A typical fabric has the following configurations.






Here is a video that depicts how to illustrate Chiffon and other sheer fabrics, enjoy !!




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Saturday 28 January 2012

Some Common Synthetic and Blended Fabrics-1



Here is a list and pictures of some synthetic and blended fabrics

Satin


Satin is a type of glossy fabric.

It is commonly used in apparel : satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses and evening gowns, but also in some men's boxer shorts, shirts and neckties.Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.

Polyester Satin

They are available in the following weights:

GSM: 85, 100, 140, 160, 210, 230





Lycra Satin

A typical fabric has a composition of 97% Polyester with 3% Spandex, with specifications of 50D*75D+40S and with a fabric density of 250*104. Available in widths of 57"/58" with a weight of 90GSM .  Also available in 100, 120 and 140 GSM and widths of 42" and 44". 






Nylon Satin

 It is available in the GSM: 80, 100 with width of 42”, 44”. 



You can have a look here at the qualities running in grey fabric, yarns and finished products in Surat.

The following is a video depicting how to illustrate satin



Wednesday 25 January 2012

Textile Testing Videos



Here are some of the videos on Testing of various textile properties. Please click the grey rectangle at the bottom of the video ( on right hand side) to see the total playlist.

In this playlist I have included the following videos:

1. Garment Seam Slippage
2.  Fabric Shrinkage
3. Fabric Yarn Count
4. Fabric Abrasion Resistance
5. Fabric Tensile Strength
6. Fabric Tear Strength
7. Fiber Strength Cotton




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Sunday 22 January 2012

How to instantly determine reed and picks per inch




When checking the fabrics like cotton sheeting, poplin, cambric, voile, lining and mull, it is often required that the reed and picks per inch are determined quickly. One way is to use the pick glass. However, it is inconvenient and taxing to count each and every thread. The other solution is the use of densimeter or lunometer.

Principle of Densimeter


Moire Pattern
The densimeter is based on the principle that when very fine grids are placed one over the other than particular patterns are observed. In this case there are grating lines etched over the artificial glass. The density of grading lines go on increasing from left to right and is marked. When this grating is placed over the fabric, a point in the grating indicates a particular pattern when the density of grating matched with that of fabric. The position of this particular pattern is observed and the value of density is read from the grating.



Usefulness in Textile Testing

Densimeter can be used in atleast three ways

1. To measure the EPI and PPI of threads in the fabric
This works best when the fabric is grey and white. For dark and knitted fabric, the light source should be beneath the surface of the fabric in order to read patterns.

2. To measure the irregularity in the fabric
Presence of broken pattern of interference lines indicate variation in pick counts, differences in yarn count or color faults.

3. For measuring the shrinkage in the fabric
Instead of measuring the shrinkage in the fabric by marking, it is always better to check the number of threads at various position of the sample before and after the washing. This is particularly useful when shrinkage is checked in the made up garments.

How to use it
1.Place the sample on a flat surface. Put the densimeter above it.

2.Rotate the densimeter until a pattern develops as the lines on the densimeter interact with the lines formed by the threads.

3.Depending on how the densimeter is oriented,  the "Point" of the pattern will be pointing to a number on either the Lines per Inch scale or the Lines per Centimeter scale. The number on the scale indicates the thread or line count.


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Monday 16 January 2012

Factors influencing the cost of Processing



A very good treatment of the topic is given in this article



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Saturday 14 January 2012

Images of Corduroy, canvas, denim and twill fabrics



10
Please see this site

 

Thursday 12 January 2012

Powerloom Mechanisms-1



Some very nice Videos from NCUTE are available on You tube. A few of them are given below:

 1. Loose Reed Mechanism

 


 2. Modern Jacquard

 

 3. Terry Pile Mechanism

 

 4. Beat up Mechanism

 

5. Drop Box Mechanism

 


 6. Positive Tappet Mechanism

 

 7. Worm Wheel Take up Mechanism

 

 8. Mechanism of Counter Shaft

 

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Sunday 8 January 2012

Bijnor Textile Cluster- Afterthoughts



Visit to Bijnor cluster was enchanting. Situated on the banks of Ganges, I could see the prosperity of powerloom owners in the villages of Sedha, Nahtor and Chandpur. Equally disturbing is the struggle that handloom weavers are facing in Kiwar. A lot needs to be done to improve the condition of that village.



Khadi is made in the village of Peruwala and the looms are pitlooms as compared to Sedha where frame handlooms are used. It was heartening to see a full-fledged reactive dyeing plant in full operation in Nahtore. Could see fabric from Seersucker to lightweight Denim being made on the powerloom.The houses are still of the older generation, having timber roofs with lots of alcoves and thick walls. Out side it was mustard and Sugarcane fields that greeted us everywhere we went. Fresh Gur was being made in the way and its soft aroma was filling our nostrils. Also elections are round the corner, so saw many congregration and announcements. Good to see conditions of roads in general.

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Thursday 5 January 2012

Getting Bright Red Color in Vat Dyes



One solution proposed is to mix Brown R and Red 6B.

http://dimachema1.en.made-in-china.com


Brown R chemically has an excellent wash fastness and dry rubbing fastness of 4 and light 6-7. However, its color fastness to rubbing in wet is only 3.  Source

Red 6B chemically also has an excellent wash fastness of 4. However its dry rubbing is only 3-4 and wet rubbing is only 3.  Source

Thus it is difficult to obtain the good rubbing fastness in this combination of dyes.


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