Doriya
The
simplest pattern is the stripe; when the stripes are longitudinal, the fabric is a Doria
Salaidar
when the stripes run along the patterns. breadth,
the fabric is Salaidar
when
the lines are diagonal, it is ara doriya
Khanjari and Laharia
When the line is wavy and angular, the pattern IS Khanjari and
the Cloth
is called Khanjaridar. Khanjari is
sometimes called Laharia,
but the latter is larger, and usually has rounded corners
Mothra
A double line containing a Simple or running pattern inside, IS called a mothra
Charkhana
When
the stripes run both Horizontally and
vertically, we have a check (charkhana),
which can be either square or
rectangular.
Ilayecha and Bulbul Chashm
A set of small lozenge-shaped
figures form the Ilayecha
pattern. The same kinds of figures enclosing
dots of some material are
called Bulbul chashm
Bel
A 'bel is a running floral pattern, with a width
of a few inches, and in its length a simple repeated over again. In the sample it is a Khajuri
Bel. The bel pattern may also be
designated the creeper pattern.
Fulwar and Vascat
If there is a running pattern of leaves and flowers all over the
groundwork of the fabric, the pattern is phulwar ; in some kinds of fabrics, where it is raised slightly
above the ground-work of the fabric and is of the same colour as the
groundwork, it is called Vascat
(See the picture)
Ari Bel
When the bel, instead of running in a straight line and parallel to the border, goes diagonally or in undulating lines, it is called' Ari bel.
Buti
A buti is a single
flower or figure, not joined to a running
pattern
Pan Buti
A pan buti is heart shaped; it is essential to a bridal chddar.
Turanj, Kalghi Butti and Kalgha Buta
A turanj is the characteristic buti in shawl
patterns; when the pointed end is
turned round and further adorned, it is a Kalghi
Butti or (if large) kalgha buta
Fardi Buti
A fardi buti is
one in which the effect is produced by points or dot.
Tin Pankha and Sat Pankha
There
is a fan-like buti which is called after
the number of petals it contains ; thus tin-pankha,
three-leaved, sat-pankha, seven-leaved
( See picture Below)
Tara Buti
Tara
Buti, a circular or square Butti supposed to resemble a star
Jamewar Butti
The Jamewar Butti resembles the conventional
representations of bushes in the
landscape of old pictures
Ashrafi Buti
Ashrafi buti is a gold buti of circular shape
Buti Jhardar
Buti jhar-dar is an ambitious
butti, comprising a whole sprig or branch
Butti Minatashi
Butti minatashi is any of these or the proceeding buttis worked in different coloured silks in a
gold cloth.
Phool Buti
Then there are the phul buttis (flower butis) called after the
various flowers; such as chameli
(Jasmine), gul daudi (Chrysanthemum)
; genda' (Marigold); if any of these bUtis is worked in a bel
pattern, with a creeper, the bel
would be called by a similar name, e.g. gende ki bel etc.
Jal
A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures, such a pattern
is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc.
Jangla
A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures, such a pattern
is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc. This is the basic difference between Jal and Jangla.
Source: A monograph on Silk Fabric- NW Provinces and Oudh by A. Yusuf Ali
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